Thursday, July 16, 2015

A place to keep my Promethium

Promethium Depot

Background

After AdeptiCon, I knew I would be adding more terrain to my collection and working on a themed table of some sort. I didn't know what it would be until I started reading the Gaunt's Ghosts novels by Dan Abnett. I haven't been reading them in any specific order, but am starting to line them up for that purpose now. The idea I had was born from reading The Armour of Contempt (e-Book $11.99). In this Gaunt leads his Ghosts back to the Chaos tainted world of Gereon a former Forge World where they go through a trench-ridden Munitorium that has been corrupted thoroughly.

My idea though combines the horrors of Dan's novel and the fantastic scenery pieces produced by Alex at Ironheart Artisans. My idea is to create a Promethium depot that is tainted and corrupt. This will require a number of the Fuel Storage units, the Promethium Pipes ($37) sets built on and around the trench system. More on this build as I get started, but first up...a place to store the promethium.

Ironheart Artisans' Fuel Storage

Fuel Storage Can
I started with the single can fuel storage unit kit ($19)...can what you I mean can, well the kit is laser-cut MDF that forms around a 12 ounce aluminum can. What the can formerly held is up to you, but in my case; I had an A&W root beer can that was emptied and cleaned the night before. Beer cans weren't available, mostly because I typically drink bottled beer, but please enjoy responsibly.

Fuel Storage Kit
You can, should you desire additional weight, use a full can. If doing this than I can only recommend using the highest level of beer, Coors Light, as terrain may be the only valuable use for this "beer".

The image here shows the entire contents of the kit. This kit as with all of the other Ironheart kits does not have to be glued together. I decided that this would be a frequently used piece of terrain and I have ample storage, so I glued the parts together using Aleene's Wood Glue.

The entire kit is well thought out so that each of the pieces fit snugly, which is why you don't have to glue. While the assembly is straight forward and pretty easy, I created a step-by-step walk-through and pictorial of the process I used. Surely some of the steps could be done in a different order.

Stairs/Walkway

I thought it best to tackle the assembly in separate parts and then assemble them all together at the end. Since the stairs/walkway were the most complex part of the build, I started there. This part of the kit definitely takes a little patience. The stair runs fit well into the riser as does the walkway. As you can see in the top view image, the walkway has added texture with the cut-outs to make it look like steel decking. What you can't see in the images so clearly, is the texture built into each of the stairs as well. These each have some etching to make them look like steel steps as well.

Half-assembled ladder (side view)
Half -assembled ladder (top view)
I started by gluing the walkway while holding the riser in my hand. This fits perfectly to the riser and is rather secure when fit together. I then laid the riser down and glued each of the stairs to the riser. There is a little peg at the end of each stair that fits well into the associated hole in the riser. There are a number of lattice cuts in the riser, so gluing surface is reduced but more than sufficient to hold everything together. Apply a little glue to the end of each stair and put in the hole, making sure that the etched side is facing up.

Completed ladder/walkway assembly
Once the stairs are added, give the piece a minute or two for the glue to start setting. Add some glue to the other side of the walkway edge and the edge of each of the stairs. Since the kit is so snug, here is where you may need a little patience. Fit the walkway to the other riser then you will have to work your way down the stairs. While keeping pressure on the walkway with one hand, fit the pegs of each stair to the appropriate hole in the riser. This will go pretty quickly if you are applying just enough pressure to hold the piece together, but not so much as you can't move the stairs. I worked on alternate sides until I got to the bottom. As you can see in the finished image, you have a very nice ladder piece and landing which is stable and appealing.

Top access hatch

Top access hatch (top view)
Top access hatch (side view)
The next separate part is the top access hatch. The hatch body is composed of four pieces that connect to each other with a tab and slot system. Apply some glue to each of the ends and simply fit together. Once the base is assembled, the top can be added. I applied the glue to the base and then added the top. The hatch portal component is a separate piece and there is a nice outline where it will fit. There is added detail to his for bolts/rivets which hold the completed piece together.

Front/Rear tank assembly

Front/Rear tank assembly (front view)
Front/Rear tank assembly (rear view)
The front and rear of the tanks are identical in the basic assembly, but there are a few additional details that come at the end of assembly. The base is composed of one piece with a large hole to frame the aluminum can. These are etched so that you can see where the face of the tank gets added. As you can see in the front view, the is a hole with an etched octagon for the detail pieces. There are a few options for to differentiate the front and back. For each side there is an octagonal extension piece, there you have the option of adding a fly wheel, a cap, or an access port to the front/rear as you like. I have chosed to have an access port on the front and left the rear open for the scenery build. The bottom of the face has cut outs for the support structure. To make the support structure identical, a single support structure component is applied to the back of the can frame.

Base and final assembly

Base with rear of tank storage attached
The base is well designed to hold the front/rear tank supports with one additional support piece for the center. This is a cut out similar to the front/rear supports. I put the rear of the tank in first and the middle support piece. I added a bead of glue to the interior of the rear support (not pictured) and the middle support where the can is seated. I also I then placed the can into the structure and with a bead of glue in the front of the tank and on the front support completed the tank assembly.

Assembled tank storage unit (front view)
Assembled tank storage unit (rear view)
The top hatch or the stairs/walkway can be added next. The assembled stairs/walkway fit neatly into the cutouts at the rear of the tank. The top hatch sits very cleanly on the fuel tank with the arched bottom. Signage is available with the flammable sign triangle, which can be added to the front/rear or the tank and the Caution signs, which I have added to the front/rear.

This is a great kit and one that will provide you with additional areas of cover, allow for height and will greatly add to your tabletop. While I am using this for promethium storage in a WH40k setting, this is easily used as an oil tank or fuel tank for any modern/future gaming scenario.