What to do with hotel key cards...scatter terrain

You are back from your latest road trip to the gaming convention, be it AdeptiCon or NOVA Open or GenCon and you have a couple of those little hotel room key cards still in your pocket. Well you could throw them away...or you could upcycle them into bases for scatter terrain.

Living in Florida, I thought the first thing that I should put together is something with an orange tree. The basic requirements are a hotel key card, some Alene's tacky glue, Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement, Woodland Scenics Blended Turf, and a Woodland Scenics Woodland Classics Orange Tree (N, HO, O Scale).

The process is pretty straight forward and this little project should not take too long to complete. Start by locating your tree. Depending on the size of the tree that you use, you can get one to three trees on a card. I started with an easy piece for the first go and selected a solitary orange tree. Glue the tree base into the desired location and let dry completely. I didn't scratch off the surface of the key card, but may in my next go to see if the adhesion increases. I did leave the tree together when selecting the placement since it is a good guide to see the canopy of the tree.

Once set, I watered down some of the scenic cement with water to make a spray adhesive. Remove the tree from the tree base for this part. Spray the entirety of the card with the watered down scenic cement. When covered well, you will then sprinkle on the blended turf. I used newspaper as my work surface so that I could recover any turf that did not adhere to limit any loss.

After the first layer is added and had some time to dry, shake off the excess onto the news paper. Now repeat the process for additional layers. I ended up with four applications of spray cement and turf to get to the coverage and thickness that I though necessary. Once you have the coverage that you desire, apply at least one more coat of the watered down scenic cement to the surface and reattach the tree. With play, you will get additional loss but reapplication of the blended turf is quick and easy.

A cozy place to lay your head...

Retro Chic 80's Hardwood Sofa

Too clean for the wasteland

This is a quick post of a sofa that was inspired by the great Jessica Rich who showed the basement of her camper in some online game. That basement is 80's themed and had a great hardwood sided sofa within it. It reminded me of one that we had when I was a kid. Hated that thing, uncomfortable and we'd run into it constantly. Terrible idea for furniture.

Well, it seemed only appropriate that a big dangerous hunk of wood furniture would survive everything and show up in your neighborhood wasteland setting for This Is Not a Test. So here is my take on that offensive (read that both ways) furniture.

The wood is painted up with the Delta Creative Ceramcoat Drk Burnt Umber with a wash of Citadel Devlan Mud and Vallejo Model Wash Brown. The cushions are painted with Reaper MSP HD Tusk Ivory and washed with Devlan Mud, Vallejo Model Wash Tierra European Dust, and Game Color Flesh Wash. Some stops were also hit with Reaper MSP HD Maiden Flesh.

Archie's Big Comfortable Chair

 While this isn't the real model of Archie Bunker's chair, that had a bunch of plaid I believe. One of the 2018 Painting Bingo Challenge for Model's Workshop is to "Find a reference picture and try to copy it for a mini". So I started doing some searching for chairs and then wanted to follow that up for a wasteland chair. I found an image and copied the look of this oversized chair (don't worry this is not an entry for the bingo, just an inspiration). Then I started to add wear marks on the chair, with the idea that this was well worn and somehow didn't catch fire in the fallout.

The chair is painted up with a base of Vallejo Model Color Flat Blue with some depth added using Citadel Enchanted Blue. The wear coloring is a combination of Model Color Grey Blue and Vallejo Game Color Glacier Blue.

Now these are far too large for any of the wasteland shacks, but as a scatter piece they are fun and potentially moveable in the wasteland. Perhaps some quick rules are necessary for release.

Modeler

For anyone following the Geek in the Basement blog, then you know the power of converting trash to treasures. Both of these piece, though sculpted originals, came from the great mind you may know as Geeky McBasement. This is a wonderful little set of scatter terrain that will work perfectly in the wastes. 

Here is a shot of the couch (for scale) with the Bombshell Wasteland Melee that I received and posted about before.

This Is Not a Test Demo Prep...Scatter Terrain

Tin Roof...Rusted

Base Coat Applied

This tin shack was made by one of my kids during a blizzard back in 2015. This has been kicking around for a while in my garage as are the other two that we assembled that day. The building of these shacks was a project to keep the kids busy one snow day. We started with a simple plan, make a one room structure that would be playable and with the appropriate look of something cobbled together in a wasteland.

Each person was provided an unlimited supply of "tin" sheeting. We used coffee cup sleeves from Starbucks and WaWa. For those outside of the Northeast US and Florida, WaWa is a convenience store chain. These, when flipped inside out, have great corrugations that look closely like tin sheeting or even corrugated steel. The back side is of course smooth so it allows for easy application to other surfaces. Most of this sheeting was cut into standard width and length sections of either 4' x 6' or 8' x 6'. This was to replicate what would be easily found within a DIY shop or scavenged from other locations that were already used. Smaller pieces were then cut to fill gaps or to add texture to the pieces.

The base and walls were made of standard foam core sheeting that is generally available for any kids craft/school project. I kept the walls to 8' (2") to allow a figure to stand within easily. The ceiling is not attached to make the inside playable. The door was created using a simple technique using stirrers. These happen to be Starbuck's stirrers because they are the right width and rectangular. Each door panel is cut to be 6' (1.5") in length. The interior of the door, is held with a series of four small pieces spanning across varies widths of the door. 

After priming this shack, I decided to test out a new can of Rustoleum Forged Hammered Antique Pewter ($8.66) that I picked up on a whim one day at WalMart. You can see the texture of the paint in the Base Coat Applied base. This is a primer and paint in one, so it will save you a step if you go this route. 

The weathering of the tin sheet was accomplished by mixing some Vallejo Model Color Light Grey areas and some Reaper MSP HD Dirty Grey spread around different areas. Some areas of rust were added using Anita's Metallic Tin Roof Rust. You can see this on the roof and some streaked areas on the front. Washes of Vallejo Model Wash Light Grey were added for sheets to add some depth. Model Wash Dark Grey was applied in areas of overlap or where a shadow was needed. The base was painted with Delta Ceramcoat Dark Burnt Umber as a place holder until I decide how I will incorporate into other pieces. This shack may be removed and placed onto a better MDF or particle board base.

In the end this painting test mostly worked. I ended up removing most of the beaten pewter from the start, but the base color was good and could be useful for some other models. In the next, I'll try a different color base and some other fun weathering ideas and break up with some broken color areas.

Dragon Forge Designs Medical Supply Marker

This Medical Supply Marker ($5.00) is the second of these markers that I have painted from Dragon Forge Designs. The first was a 40mm on a beveled base and covered in my Take a second to breathe...then prepare for what's next post, while this one is 50mm. As  you can plainly see, this base is a rounded lip base, which is my typical preference for all of my miniatures. For this, I did some different things. I started with a base of Citadel Calthan Brown for the box. The cross members are based with a bit of Citadel Dwarf Flesh. The cross is painted with Vallejo Model Color Flat Red. The box was washed using Vallejo Model Wash Light Grey to draw out the grain of the wood. The box was dry brushed with Model Color Light Grey to add some aging to the box. 

The base was started in Citadel Bleached Bone as was the skull, but I found it to be too light. I painted a few of the larger rocks with Model Color Ashen Grey and some of the smaller rocks with Citadel Knarlock Green. With the light base color, the skull was lost and it looked too much like a sandy area and that was not the final location I had in mind. I used a Model Wash Dark Grey which took the base much darker. This was hit with a dry brush of Dwarf Flesh to add some highlight. Back into this some small areas of Calthan Brown was added for soil and some areas of Delta Ceramcoat Dark Burnt Umber. This Dark Burnt Umber was also used to trim the base entirely. 

Mantic Games Canister

At some point a couple/few years ago, Mantic Games had an offer for some free scatter terrain pieces that could be used to support Battlezones or Star Saga. This specific one is a three canister set that is permanently attached. This piece was free, which is pretty great, but unfortunately I only have one of these. I'd love to have another 5 or 6 of them. You can now get these within the BattleZones: Sci-Fi Urban Accessories pack ($12.99).

I went with a flat color scheme with a primary color base to give it a futuristic look. The base colors are Vallejo Model Color Flat Blue and Model Color Flat Red. The top is Model Color Grey Blue. The segments are lined using Game Ink Black. The side clasps were painted with Citadel Chainmail.

Now, for use in This Is Not a Test the canisters must be beaten up some. I used Reaper MSP HD Military Grey to make some areas where the color was removed and the primer exposed. In some of these areas, some slight use of the Citadel Chainmail is used to show the bare metal.

Dragon Forge Designs Ancient Runes II Ammo Objective

The Ancient Runes II Ammo Objective ($5.00) is 40mm on a beveled base. This is a set of large ordinance shells and a smaller ammunition box on what could be an ancient tile floor space.

For the stones I wanted an aged Italian/Greek marble look. I started with Citadel Bleached Bone as a base. The marbling was added with Reaper MSP HD Tusk Ivory and Citadel Calthan Brown. I washed this with Model Wash European Dust.

For the ammunition box, I had a desire to have a RoboTech inspired box. For this I used Model Color Blue Grey for the surround to the lid and Model Color Light Grey for the rest. This made is futuristic and I think hit the color intent. Of course this would stick our for Warhammer 40K and This Is Not a Test, but I like the look.

The shells are based with FolkArt Metallic Chocolate Brown, surprising I know but I have a big bottle of this stuff left from the Command Master Sergeant statue. This was then washed down with Citadel Nuln Oil to rough it up/age it and to pick out the section lines. A couple of highlights were added using Reaper MSP HD Military Grey.

Hobby Hangout Holiday Swap

Hobby Hangout 

When the holiday swap came around this year, I immediately jumped on the opportunity. For me, this was to be a kick in the rear to get started painting again. Moving to Florida was a great thing, but at the same time has isolated me from my hobby and gaming in general. As a result, I have slowly spiraled further down until the thought of painting was horrifying. With some requirements and a deadline, I knew that I had to move forward with something and a limited amount of time to get to work. So I selected something to which I had targeted for a future Preserver or Raider warband for This Is Not A Test, but that may or may not come about and so off to a new owner. 

Miniature Selection

Mr. Pretty

I selected one of the new pieces from Brigade Games that was released from the Kickstarter campaign. The range brought a bunch of amazing figures for any wasteland needs, even some modern skirmish games. There are a number of other great products from Brigade Games, so check them out and if you like what you see then follow them on facebook.

The entire range is fantastic, but there was something great about this piece that was calling to me. I had personally names him, Mr. Pretty, though to my knowledge he has no official name. To me, Mr. Pretty makes for a perfect Lorekeeper for a Preserver warband. His dapper style, bowler hat, and topped off with a gas mask, Uzi, and walking stick. If you'd like a Mr. Pretty of your own, well you need to pick up one from the Apocalypse Wastelanders - 3 Raiders I set ($24.00).

The finished miniature was shipped off to Andrew Carter. I am hoping that Andrew is inspired to check out This Is Not A Test and start some wasteland adventures of his own. Andrew made a vlog entry about the miniature and you can find it on his Artimage YouTube channel. 

Painting Process

Mr. Pretty (front)

Though scrounging for his wares in a post-apocalyptic wasteland, Mr. Pretty is always sure to be well appointed and presentable. I started with the bowler hat. I know that makes no sense, but that's where I started. I went with Vallejo Model Color Grey Black then used the Light Grey to give it a worn look. The band is Citadel Bleached Bone to match the shirt. It is important to be color coordinated.

The shirt, an impressive Citadel Bleached Bone with French cuffs provides elegance and a sense of status. Looking at the cut of the bottom, it appears that Mr. Pretty has optioned a shirt from the new Untuct line. This was washed with some Vallejo Flesh Wash to give it a bit of depth and a little of the worn appearance.

How Mr. Pretty keeps such well-pressed (and stain free) pants is a matter for another post, but clearly indicates his prowess and power. These were painted up with Model Color Blue Grey with a Model Wash Light Grey wash. Highlighting with the Light Grey helped tie it all together.

Mr. Pretty (rear)

Now, no wastelander could be considered well-equipped without a gas mask and some steel plating. The gas mask was the same black grey with a Vallejo Dark Grey Model Wash. The lenses are Vallejo Model Color Blue Grey with Folk Art Metallic Chocolate Brown rims. Now, the color for the Folk Art paint was great, but the thickness leaves quite a bit to be desired. It was perfect for fixing the Master Command Sergeant Statue, but took some work for miniature painting.

The base is round lip 30mm resin base from the Cobblestone 30MM set ($11.99 for 10) from Secret Weapon Miniatures. The cobbles on the street were painted using a couple of varieties of greys (Reaper Concrete Grey and Model Color Light Grey) and washes (Vallejo European Dust and Brown Wash). The brick surround for the sewer cover were done with Model Color Flat Red with a few layers of wash. The sewer cover was painted using the Folk Art Metallic Chocolate Brown washed with Model Color Dark Rust.

The gun was first painted with Anita's Metallic Craft Paint - Tin Roof Rust and then some washes of Nuln Oil applied. The non-metallic parts were painted with Model Color Black Grey. The holster, bags, and straps were painted using Army Painter Leader Brown and Citadel Snakebite Leather.

My Gift

Wasteland Melee (front)

I received a wonderfully painted Wasteland Melee ($9.99) from Bombshell Miniatures. I happen to be also working on my version of this same miniature, but this is great. A very natural looking Melee done in earth tones and looking well fit appropriately dusty. This fantastic paint job was done by Ken Horton of the Battle Badgers club.

Wasteland Melee (rear)

I don't know much about this base though it is a really great piece. The wrench really seems to pop out to me and the look of one that would be in a set.

This figure will go great with a larger project to which I am every so slowly working to complete. Part of that will require getting over a fear of using my air brush. I am hopeful that I can conquer that soon with my garage remodel. In that Wasteland Melee will be appropriately set-up with her Rocket Fuel Gas Station and Service Shop. It will be complete with Ice Machine, Soda Vending, Gas Pumps, Rocket Bike Repair...everything you need to explore the wastes.

Upcoming

Since I've been getting back into this a bit slowly, I'll be working on a bunch of markers and small pieces that I have received or acquired for scenery stuff. Then the plan is to complete some started pieces and move onto a few characters for the kids for our D&D campaign.

A Call to Arms

When a veteran calls...answer.

Flag damage

Recently, a colleague had the misfortune of some significant damage done to a statue of his. Command Master Sergeant Louis Barnes thought his retirement statue would be safe, but a strong gust of wind and down it tumbled off of his desk. This statue seemed heavy, but it turns out that all of the weight was in the wood base, so when the wind picked up; down went the statue to a crashing disaster.

Lou and I were, at the time, colleagues at Metters, Inc. which is now unfortunately closed (Lou is starting a new security company Barnes Security Solutions, LLC if you need assistance in the Orlando, FL area). Lou had originally asked our model shop lead if he could be of assistance, but was redirected to me given my hobby of small toy soldiers. Now Lou's soldier statue stands about 18" high all told, so a far cry from the 1" figures I usually manage.

Damage Done

Base damage

When Lou approached me, I was nervous to agree and so asked him to bring it into the office so that I could take a look at the damage. I am no sculptor and by no means a professional. Lou had attempted a self-repair, but could not get all of the little bits reattached and the gaps filled.

Foot damage

The biggest concerns for me were the damage to the flag. This was a pretty significant gap and a number of large cracks running up and down the flag. The access the parts of the flag that were damaged were obstructed by the head of the statue.

The other concern was the damage to the foot. This was mainly a concern because it was a more complex area with the laces and boot sections. The gap, while relatively small, was combined with a crack that went from one side to the other then across the front to the toe. The crack was thin and already glued back together so fixing that area was concerning.

Flag damage

The least of the concerns was the damage to the base. This overall was the least complex. It was a rather flat area with some scratch marks within the general area. The area was large, but all in all seemed like a pretty straight forward correction. The only potential concern would be the adherence of the materials to the base.

The statue is made of plaster, so the material was not too much of a concern. The larger issue was the paints. As I stated pretty clearly, I am colorblind so I had a significant concern with selecting the correct colors to match the under color and the and the bronzing. This was after some especially difficult times at Metters with work on one of the military trainers where we had a major issue with the customers original selection for a copper pipe versus what would actually be seen in the real world.

Healing Process

Reporting for duty

After the review of the statue in person, I decided to give it a go. The alternative was for Lou to ship it off to someone at an exorbitant rate to get fixed. I was fairly confident that I would be able to restore it to a more than fair condition and set it right back to Lou.

I started with the easiest first, the base. This was to get the mix of plaster (Merlin's ) correct and to gets my hands dirty again with the plaster. Once I had the mix right, I was able to apply using my dental picks. These were the perfect tools to work the plaster. After filling in the space, it was a matter of letting the plaster dry a bit and then marking it to look much like the other scratches.

Firm base support

With the work on the base done, I moved onto the boots. The hole filling was pretty easy, but then the next step was the work on the boots. This made me a bit more nervous with the laces. The hole was pretty easy to correct, but the crack through the laces needed a little more work. I managed to get most of the crack filled with a little texture work to make the laces match. The repair work previously done made the crack hard to conceal entirely, but I managed to get enough plaster around it to make it shelf worthy. The repair wasn't perfect, but it was concealed enough so as not to notice from more than a foot away. There was one area of the boot that needed a little more touch up following the plaster work, and for that I needed a little more of a pliable material and used some Gale Force 9 green stuff. This allowed me to work the material into a small space without affecting the boot surrounding.

The flag being the most difficult, was saved for last. I started with some plaster work to fill the largest of the gaps. The size of the space and the empty space within the statue made for some shrinkage. I had to go back with a second set of plaster after the first batch had dried. This didn't address all of the issues though and a significant crack remained along the fold of the flag nearest to the statues head.

Flag bearer

For this area, I had to do some work with the green stuff. The crack needed a few goes to get the length filled with green stuff and then worked flat. The overall result was a rather seamless set of joints in the flag, base, and the boots. The crack was slightly visible with close inspection, but not much else could be done for it.

The paint match, my personal biggest challenge, took much more time than the fixes to plaster and cracks. After going through every paint that I had for my tiny soldier painting, I starting going through the color ranges of Reaper, Vallejo, and P3. My search was fruitless. I spent the better part of 3 weeks looking at paints online, at Walmart, Target, Lowe's, Michael's. Pretty much at any location where I could see paints. Finally with a trip to Hobby Lobby for some Christmas decorations with my wife and the Command Master Sergeant statue in tow, she was able to help me find a match.

Bearer of Arms 

With a large selection of craft paints, she narrowed to a few options. The final selection for the matching base color was Folk Art Acrylic Cocoa (6498) and for the bronzing, Metallic Chocolate Brown (2570). I applied the Cocoa with a brush, Windsor and Newton Series 7 #2. For the bronzing, I would add with a brush to the high point and then rub it onto the statue with my finger. This seemed to allow me to hit the high points with the bronzing color without running into a channel. Overall, the statue turned out quite well and my wife and kids did the primary QC for me.

The other day, I got to meet up with Lou and discuss how things were and present to him the Command Master Sergeant statue once again. He was thrilled and hopefully it will complete his home office. I am glad I was able to do a small bit of good for Lou, who did so much for our country over his career with the Army.